Venturing out of Barca: Zaragoza, Spain

     

The Chew		The View
The Four Horsemen aka Death by Chocolate		Stunning Views from La Pilar

~2/19, Zaragoza Bus Station

We were a new clan, deposited in a new land--wind straining against our ears, with only a map in hand. Ok ok, so we had just gotten off a 4-hour bus ride to Zaragoza, and it was a little windy. The map was a little difficult to read at first, but we were in the right direction. And Zaragoza is the 5th most populous city in Spain.

After spending a solid month traipsing around Barcelona and Catalunya (ref: Girona), I felt it was time to explore another province--Aragon. With my new travel buddies Philippe, Rachel, and Kirsty (and some old travel buddies: Kristin & James) in tow, we were set to explore this party city.

But first, hunger pangs. And it was only 5pm. Dios mio, the WORST time to be hungry for dinner.

 

  

Thanks to Philippe's expertise, we were able to haggle a "bocatada," which was essentially a deconstructed bocadillo. Although the chef was frustrated and other patrons may have laughed at our early hunger pangs, which doesn't happen in Europe.

The hostel was amazing, the Albergue Zaragoza Hostel to be precise. I've really started to enjoy going to hostels, despite the "intimate" living in dorm-styles. Perhaps it's the fact that everyone there is on equal playing ground--young people traveling on a shoestring, carrying only a backpack and passport, looking for the next big party.

Lesson #1: Eat dinner before going out on the town. That's all your getting from TraceFace.

The next day was our day of exploration. Despite the fact that Zaragoza is the 5th largest city in Spain, it feels fairly small. And in small cities in Spain, you must ALWAYS respect siesta (hence why we couldn't eat dinner from 4-8pm). 

 Philippe & I takin' over el Pilar

The Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar is one of the main sights of Zaragoza, built in honor of Mother Mary. We took a tour inside and found it to be quite a money-maker as well. A church service which marked our entrance was followed by a wedding procession in the back. The candle offerings were actually coin-operated and electric, meaning that there were no actual candles to burn. James claims he saw a coin slot in the confessionals...

But then, the 2 euro elevator to the top was well worth the price. 

 

  

James congratulating the new bride & groom

Next, more food! This time, we were on the right time track (around 1pm), although still a bit early. It was salad for everyone.

 

Queso de cabra (HUNKS OF GOAT CHEESE)

Yes, Spanish cheese is amazing. Never before have I gorged myself on the creamy, lactose-inducing mounds of it as I have here. 

Next stop--the plaza that we left from? And a random fiesta? This city is small and random, but extremely endearing.

Dance in protest--illegal immigrants, I believe?

I'm still thoroughly OBSESSED with plazas in Spain. They are so well-maintained, and my urban-planning nerdy mind loves how they create central spaces that are easy to guide people to. And as I have NO sense of direction, central plazas are like friendly faces in a crowd of hungry wolves (aka those winding streets that throw my sense of direction to hell).

So much walking in circles. Let's eat.

God it does not get much better than this. White chocolate, French milk chocolate, medium chocolate, DARK AS NIGHT chocolate. And the churros were not your typical sugar-encrusted pieces of fried dough. These were similar to a Chinese doughnut (yo tiao), and didn't NEED sugar. I'm a sugarholic. And I can attest to the fact that it was the perfect balance of sweet and savoury. Life was good. 

Siesta time. 

After that, I exerted negative physical KITA (kick in the pants--a highly scientific business model we've learned in my highly scientific Motivation, Values, and Commitment class), and got everyone out of the warm hostel into the cold. Why you ask?

Video game exhibition, Museo del Centro

Is this what it feels like to be old? To have your most cherished, childhood belongings stuck under class, with people muttering, "Wow! That is so OUTDATED!" It's creepy to note that I still have said "relics" and they work quite well, thank you. Not museum material.

No matter, this was en route to the highlight of every day. Dinner!

My local friend Alvaro suggested Estudios Bar, a local joint with local fare. This left me unprepared for the mayhem of a bar where you can opt to sit in a crowded dining room, on kegs, or simply stand and chat as you reach for that third morsel. There were heaping plates of bread with various HUNKS of cheese and meats. You are given a personal cutting board to cut your rations and share with friends. All for around 2.50 euro each.

The rest of the night was fairly tame.

I did go to the tavern under our hostel, which was literally the remnants leftover from a palace that our hostel was built on. It had the sickest local underground scene, which was literally underground. I think listening to Spanish rap is quite an academic venture myself. 

Our final day had us visiting the Aljafería Palace, which dates back to the 9th century (you're 1200 years old? No big. This is Europe!). What initially began as a Muslim holding was subsequently Christianized with the big expulsion of Jews & Muslims in 1492. This made for a tremendous mix of architecture under one palace roof.

 

 

My new obsession with archways--like shark teeth

The ornate details of the ceilings and archways are breathtaking. BWAH if only these photos were panaromic, or interactive, or had touch-vision, or SOMETHING to give you a sense of just how grand and spectular it is to look up and see every inch of wood panel decorated with gold. 

And just when you think your visit to Zaragoza is complete, we get hit with another random fiesta. Does anyone else smell gunpowder?

 

Oddly enough, they look for Brit than Spaniard. Some sort of celebration that ends with gunfire into the audience. Or at least over the turret.

Alas, school work and life has gotten the best of me and my updates. This weekend sees me off to Madrid with Kristin, where I'll be meeting Kelsey, seeing more of Philippe, and hopefully getting a glimpse of my travel gnomies, Luia and Jess.

"El mundo es un pañuelo" - Literally, the world is a scarf. And isn't it a world made up of so many small threads and connections that you can feel wrapped in it's warmth?

Until the last churro is eaten,

The Chew

How Time Flows By: New Years, Carnaval, Birthdays!

~Barca (although excitedly awaiting a trip to Zaragoza!)

   

The Chew		The View
Mi amiga MinCi @ Chinese New Year's		Nord Parc

~2/14: Chinese New Years (oh yes, and St. Valentine's Day)


St. Valentine's is overshadowed by the bigger festival of Carnival. And as my USC Madrid homies and I went exploring the streets and various plazas (4 plazas along one street, this is getting insane my Spaniard friends), we stumbled across a gathering. I thought they were pirates. Silly me--they were HUMAN PYRAMID participants.

 

Apparently it's part of a big competition among various parts of the city. And see those tiny things ascending the human cliffside? Those are CHILDREN with poofy helmets. This country seriously lacks health codes and child labor laws--which makes the fiestas ten times more interesting than they are ever legally allowed to be back home. 

 

<3 mis Madrileños 

Oh dear how I was craving anything Asian. Food, people, gambling--and somehow it all came together through my Singaporean friend, MinCi. This crazy chica organized an outing to a Chinese restaurant in Marina called El Restaurante Chino or something equally original.

7 courses for 7 euro. All my New Year's dreams came true:

Spring Rolls (rollos de primavera), Veggies (ensalada china), Sweet & Sour Pork, Qingcai (green veggies), Mushroom with Beef, Fried Rice, Shrimp chips...

On top of this cornucopia of wonderful grease and comfort, my mother was present. Yes everyone, my mother sent her minion to Barcelona for the sole purpose of feeding me. MC, I CAN NEVER EAT WITH YOU AGAIN. She doled out huge portions to everyone, and--similar to a goldfish--I continued to eat the food that magically rose out of my plate. I have not eaten so much in all my time here in Spain.

~2/16: Tuesday Carnaval in Sitges

Dios mio. In a country where living in the moment and indulging in wine and pleasure is the norm, the day before the conservative Lenten season is complete INSANITY. And where else to engage in the most amazing displays of costume than in the gay capital of Catalonia?

Sitges is a beautiful seaside town just 30 minutes south of Barca. Our local friend Miguel drove us down to his friend Carlos' grandparents' summer home. Yet another trend in Spain, a home for each season. They have their own version of "snowbirds" here, snowbirding across the state to seek a roost for the winter.

Or maybe they flee Sitges because of this:

Think that + music + cross-dressing + drunken munchie xurros con chocolate and you have our Tuesday night. My hope for sitting in morning Motivation, Values, and Commitment class was shattered (ironic, no?). Especially considering our arrival back to Barca at 6am, an hour before I normally wake up for class.

Photos from our night will be up shortly, and perhaps I'll recall more stories then...

~2/18: Alice's Surprise Birthday Dinner

Have I told you about my doll of a friend, Alice? She's been studying in ESADE for six months already, speaks incredibly colloquial Spanish (using the highly technical adverb of "superrr" + adj), and has opened up her circle to us newbs.

As such, a surprise dinner was in order at Maitea, a traditionally Basque tapas restaurant.

 

Two of my many pintxos of the night. Cream cheese with assorted nueces (nuts) and Foie-filled champiños con queso (I found out about the foie filling later, to my chagrin, but the mushroom was juicy and amazing with cheese).

Still on a high from the amazing night of clubbing last week (aka Chupitos Bar & Hyde Club), I was in the spirit to celebrate. That spirit found us at Kahala Bar with some amazingly tropical drinks. As if I needed more rum after Sitges...

Banana daquiri, Coconut with cinnamon, limon-fresa, Bailey's with Coconut

Rum bellies, here we come!

Now I'm off to Zaragoza, a city in between Barca and Madrid. University town, tapas, shopping, Roman architecture? I'm down.

Also, I will not forgo Lent in the most Catholic country ever. Instead of taking away the negative (as in the abstinent manner of Catholicism), I've decided to add a positive--I've decided to journal everyday. We'll see where these 40 days of self-reflection take me. And don't worry, I won't write all that schmaltz here. Goodness you'd be sick of me.

Happily anticipating the 4 hour bus ride,
The Chew

The Chew Goes VIDEO: Juicy Jones Vegan

~Barca

Food lovers should be worshiping the technological advances before us. The possibilities for smell-o-vision on Food Network have me woozy (think of the pine tree smell in California Adventure's Soarin' Over California ride), and taste-o-meters are not far behind.

Here, I give you the first installation of my own Chew 2.0 video of the only vegan restaurant in Barcelona, Juicy Jones. Now if only you could taste my banana, papaya, almond milk shake...




Welcome to 2010,
The Chew

The Cho Joins the Chew!

~Girona, Spain

   

The Chew		The View
Chocolate-filled xiuxius		Girona's Jewish El Call Museum

2/5/09: A Jewish street, a Muslim bathhouse, a Gothic Cathedral. These are the standouts of a city just north of Barcelona called Girona.

I found myself in transit at 9am armed with my backpack and a student travelbook, sitting in a half-empty bus and seeing a countryside that looked more like the East Coast of the US than the Costa Brava de Espana. I was on a mission to pick up my dear high school friend, Janice Cho, from the budget airport in Girona--but my goal was more than that. The more that I stay in Barcelona (as my roommates are currently gallivanting in Paris), the more I'm seduced by the siren's call of Spain. This is a country where a 3-hour bus ride will take you from a bustling cosmopolitan city to una ciudad known for historic flamenco and bullfighting (think Valencia, Alicante, Sevilla).

We met up at the bus station, and I had the surreal experience of seeing an old friend in a new place. As you'll see in the photos, we're still our same, old, silly selves!

We crossed the Onyar river that divides the old city from the new city, and I was instantly reminded of the divide between old and new Barcelona. Where I live is called Ciutat Vella, or Old City, because it used to be the palace grounds that was covered in city walls. In Girona, the old city has an amazing blend of repressed Jewish, hints of Muslim, and heady overtones of Catholic cultures.

But before our trek into the past, we had to make a stop for:

• xiuxius (pronounced "shoo-shoos"): A Girona specialty doughnut rolled in sugar and filled with chocolate cream.

Since I don't drink coffee, that was my energy boost for the morning. Time for the sights.

Catedral de Girona 

With its 1000-year old tapestry in devotion to Christianity, I was overwhelmed by how much those walls must have seen. Back track 1000 years, and you would find an unblemished landscape in the States. In Europe, this was in the midst of religious warfare and impending persecution.

Banos Arabes

 Janice's pushing and a student entry fee of 1 euro got me in here. Ironic how chilly a bathhouse could be, although we found out later this was the "cold room"--located next to the hot room. Perhaps the temperature difference was good for the pores?
While this was built in the style of Arabic bathhouses, it wasn't a direct remnant of the Moors.

The Jewish "Call"

As is usually the case, the Jews had a very turbulent history in this part of the world. While they were welcomed with open arms and government finances in the early 1000s (for their stable contribution to the economy), they then became scapegoats for the ravages of the Black Plague 300 years later. Soon, they were relegated to an area of Girona known as the "Call," and when they left that area to enter the rest of the city, were forced to wear special badges~

 

Very Scarlet Letter.

Even though it only took us 5 hours to see most of the main sights, it was a trip well worth it. There were no tourists to elbow through, no pickpockets to trigger my paranoia. Apparently, Girona was ranked one of the best places to live by local Spaniards. This Indian restaurant I stumbled over (literally, those cobblestone streets are a bitch) is probably the reason why~

My hankering for Gobi Aloo was certainly rewarded. In the end, my cravings are not for a specific food but rather for the whole genre of foods at our disposal back in Los Angeles. Tapas and touristy paella are plentiful, Italian is expensive, Mexican is rare, Thai even rarer, Chinese and Korean are non-existent. Care packages anyone?

Off to a pub for Super Bowl,
The Chew

The Chew...Goes to School?!

~Sant Cugat

     

The Chew		The View
Xurros con Chocolate Caliente		My Loverly School, ESADE

Amidst all these articles of traveling, picnicking, wining and dining, you must be wondering when that whole "education" thing comes into play. After all, this is a study abroad program I'm enjoying.

Hold your breath no longer, as I'm an official ESADE student! We started full classes this week, and here's what my course load looks like:

09C15871 2 - Leadership

09B20877 2 - Marketing in Spain

09C11013 - Media Convergence and New Business Models

09C15831 2 - Motivation, Values and Commitment

09C30852 - Risk Management in Financial Institutions

09C15837 - Seminario: Cross-Cultural Communication

Marketing in Spain ~ Your basic marketing class with Spanish-based cases (woot, Zara in 2 weeks!). We've got a funny Indian professor who was nicknamed JJ in the States, but realized that this nickname won't work in Spain--that would make him "Hay Hay"

Risk Management ~ Planning to switch outta this one--all the graduate finance students get googly-eyed over it. I just will never get it. Sandwiches make me salivate, not credit scores.

Motivation ~ Similar to an Organizational Behavior class. Nice and fluffy, like my eggs.
(Have I mentioned that I have yet to enjoy a good BREAKFAST here? Minus the pastisseries, which are everywhere here).

 

While I'm on this lovely food tangent, let me tell you about the way breakfast works here.

Cafe con leche ~ You have to ask for this to get a regular coffee. Otherwise, you are automatically signing up for an espresso shot that'll send you reeling for the next hour.

White Chocolate Croissant ~ Ok, this was just the pastry I enjoyed. The chocolate variations are popular here, with both ends dipped in white or dark chocolate, and a lovely chocolate center. Oooo and nice and flaky. Gorgeous, buttery, flaky croissants. The size of your head. 

Chocolate Caliente ~ This ain't our Nesquik. It's drinkable fondue. Literally melted chocolate with a little chocolate milk to make it somewhat sippable, this stuff won't travel up a straw like normal liquids. In fact, it just begs to be dipped into by these guys: xurros.

Don't mind the spelling, the Catalans here like to use x's with the soft "s" sound. It distinguishes them from general Spanish, which is an important part of Barcelonian culture. Although everyone speaks Spanish, you are constantly reminded of the French-Spanish Catalan language spoken on metros and in restaurants colloqially. Greetings of "Bon dia" and requests of "Cie us plaut" are commonplace.

I'm sure you're dying to hear more about school, but I want to tell you a little secret, and about a food festival I stumbled across. I went to my friend Blair's apartment in Gracia, a bohemian neighborhood in Northern Barcelona reminscient of Silver Lake with the packed streets of Greenwich Village. She hosted a rooftop BBQ--and let me tell you, rooftop terraces are a BIG deal here. I guess this place gets warm or something, since people plant umbrellas like toothpicks. Looking from one rooftop, you can see the outdoor domains of rivaling buildings, where the balconies often rival the small apartments they sit atop (pictures of our own rooftop will come in warmer conditions).

After drinking vino and grilling, we moved downstairs to her apartment and noted some large bonfires in the Placa del Diamant that her building overlooks. Pagan witchcraft? Catalan rebellion?

Actually, a SPANISH FOOD FESTIVAL had found me! It's called the Sa Pobla a Gràcia, and it honours St. Anthony, one of Spain's most celebrated saints (if sainthood earns you food gatherings in your name, count me in the running). The Mallorcans--from the island of Mallorca, next to Ibiza--throw this festival for the Barcelonians. Barcelonians return the favor later in the year at Mallorca.

Needless to say we hustled down to stake our claim in the line of revelers. And for 3 euros, we enjoyed gastro-revelry. You get a paper bag with two slices of bread, chorizo sausage, and a piece of raw meat. You cook everything yourself! This certainly wouldn't fly in health-code regulated USA & England. Raw meat rests on the same plate with the cooked food. Possible salmonella in light of deliciousness?

Curiosity won my tastebuds. 

 

 Portuguese-->American-->American-->Italian-->English-->German

I've met such a diverse group of Europeans here, it's astounding!

As for my vegetarianism? I'm still avidly in search of the best veggie burgers and exotic veggie fare, but there are times when I will starve. And at those times, I relish the fact that delicious meat is in fact at hand. The Spanish meat industry is much more local-based, making it less of a pervasive, factory-based supply chain like it is in the US--so I feel more responsible paying for meat here when there are simply no other options.

I'm no carnivore, though, never fear :)

Walking my tail off,
The Chew

Lazy Sunday: Eating my way to the coast

~Barca

     

The Chew		The View
Tofu-Mushroom VEGGIE Burger @ Vegetalia		Tapas Bar on La Rambla

There's been a flurry of activity on this side of the world, ranging from a guided bus tour of Barcelona to my 1-hour trek to and from school at ESADE. Didn't think I'd ever actually go to school, didja?

1/24: This was my first settled Sunday, and I decided to spend it as a personal day of food outings and meanderings around this unexplored city of mine.

I started on La Rambla, the main drag of street with tourists and the Boqueria. Before veering off to my tour of the hidden gems, I got a yummy treat: a free falafel sample from Maoz Vegetarian. This little puppy uses green chickpeas, making for the green, fluffy inside. The gimmick worked, and I trekked back in 38-degree weather the next night to fulfill my cravings.

The craziest thing about this city is the system of sidestreets. Here is the simple guide to Spanish exploration (NOTE: advisable by day. Keep note of the sun, as you may lose your sense of direction and need to return to the main drag):
Step 1 - From the main boulevard, look to your left and see what would in LA be considered a "shady," winding sidestreet. What makes it different from LA is the fact that (despite grafitti all over), people are walking along, couples are laughing, kids are playing.
Step 2 - Turn. I wandered down some of those and people-watched. The streets are dark because of the buildings, but look for patches of light.
Step 3 - When you see a huge break of light around the corner, move forward...and you've wandered into a GORGEOUS open-air plaza! It's what the Grove tries to emulate, but will never do, and completely breathtaking.

And that's how I found this little gem: Vegetalia. I had been positively CRAVING anything remotely vegetarian that wasn't spinach (too many possibilities for hidden ham in that dish). The tofu-mushroom veggie burger hit the spot, and it was a steal at 3.90 euros (=$5.40). While I typically won't eat meals out alone back home, there's something about being an explorer abroad that makes the experience wonderful. Not lonely, not boring. Just contemplative. I got my calendar for traveling all set, and warmed my toes up too--the temps drop to 38 degrees F at night here!

Vegetalia Restaurante
C/ Escudellers 54
08002 Barcelona
93 317 33 31

After getting back to the main drag and walking along the beach, I headed to the Picasso Museum for their "Secret Images" exhibit. It was an exploration of Picasso's years spent dappling in Japanese erotic images--an interesting exposure to the world of a prolific and perverse genius like Picasso.

No pictures allowed, so this would have to suffice. In fact, you probably wouldn't want to see pictures. Not terribly appetizing.



What is appetizing is the fact that I FOUND BARCELONA'S CHINATOWN! I seriously was getting ready to head back after 4 hours of walking, when I saw Chinese writing. Legit. I walked in and saw soy sauce and Sriracha hot sauce. More legit. Then I saw these puppies in the freezer. Done deal.

After buying soy sauce, tofu, and avocado (I still owed people money at this point, stupid ATM withdrawal limit), I headed home--sore and ready to eat. 

It's nice to know that no matter where you are on earth, no matter how tired your feet are, or how many euro you've just spent on a single avocado, you can come home to a roomie-family meal :)



Sangria in my stomach, you in my heart,
The Chew