Le Saint Amour: A french gem in the heart of Culver

     

The Chew		The View
Cheese-flecked pommes frites		Cheers to dessert wine!

Preparing for the food marathon around Europe has not been easy. Not only have I been reading up on Spanish cuisine and food culture in The Complete Book to Tapas and Spanish Cooking (Christmas gift courtesy Luia!), but I've been training my stomach as well.

I began with a trip to Saint Amour, a wonderful French brasserie in Downtown Culver City. My parents actually know the owners, an amazingly hospitable French couple who used to own Angelique Cafe in Downtown LA.

Although I love butters and creams as much as the next American, I must admit that there is such a thing as overload. I cook mainly with olive oils and stir-frys, so when faced with crème fraiche (that delectable fresh cream atop fruits and desserts) I face the dilemma between taste and stomach.

Luckily, Saint Amour offers a variety of vegetarian-friendly and lighter dishes as a supplement to the typical beef tenderloins and rib shanks.

I began my meal with an Endive Salad topped with candied walnuts and truffle vinaigrette. I love me those caramelized nuts to complement the lightness of salads--I only wish I had more! Although I could eat nuts peppered with salad instead of the other way around.

My diningmates also ordered a round of Moules Marinieres or mussels for the table. While I'm not the biggest fan of seafood, I was addicted to the broth of white wine and shallots that the mussels were cooked me.

I dipped lots and lots of bread into that pool of wine sauce. Thank goodness that wasn't the only wine for the night!

When in France, or eating at a French brassiere, you must order the French Onion Soup. And I'd heard that Saint Amour's was a good one. What used to be viewed as a dish for poor people is now a classic go-to in French restaurants. 

The signature melted gruyère is always the most amusing part of the dish: you have to break through it to get the broth, and it hovers on the surface for you to savor throughout the meal. I've never been dainty when I eat, and that layer of cheese on the crouton or bread slice certainly got me messy. But I relished it with all the glee of a Parisian.

Bruno and Florence, the husband and wife team that made this Euro palate teaser possible, joined us to chat before dessert. We discussed everything from the long hours of the restaurant business (Bruno didn't leave until well after 8pm, while Florence wo-manned the night shift) to where to eat in France. Takeaways there:

• French brasseries (a brassiere is a bra, so don't make the mistake in spelling I first did) are more casual than bistros and more upscale than cafés. They line the streets of Paris, and I'm out to find the best one.
• Lyon is apparently the food capital of France. It abounds with bouchons, which were originally wine bars but in Lyon apply to their special brand of restaurant. Expect to see many many photos from Lyon!

What is a great meal without dessert? My mom was game for a crème caramel, a type of flan. The caramel top is soft in this dish (as opposed to the caramelized sugar that rests firmly atop a crème brulée).

This dish had a surprisingly refreshing lemon component, which made you feel like you were eating air. Except it's far more than air. The fluffy custard was accompanied by that soft top, which had the stronger, almost smoky flavor that reminded you of all the wonderful calories you were enjoying.

If the hospitality of Saint Amour's fine service and management is anything like that in France, I think my food trip around Europe could be truly transforming. If I can sit and eat for 3 hours with food appearing in stretches as opposed to a mashed platter of varied food groups thrown together, if I can enjoy separate wines and ports to complement each course as opposed to forcing down cheap alcohol, if I can glean local tips from the gracious owners of restaurants--well, I may come back a restauranteur myself.

Au revoir,

The Chew